The big black and white killer whale — his four-foot sail-like dorsal fin erect and rising from a long sleek black and white body — came slicing rapidly through the water, seemiingly on a collision course with our vessel.
Sort of a black and white torpedo with eyes, fin, flippers, and fluke!
The Kansas lady to my right gave a little gasp. “Might it hit us?” she asked
plaintively.
No time for her husband to answer. Seconds later, and only a scant four yards
from our starboard rail, the orca suddenly dove, his body and dorsal disappearing
from view. His course took him directly under (not into!) our boat. A mad scramble
ensued as all of us raced through and around the ship’s forward lounge to the port
side of the vessel. Most of us made it in time to see the great dorsal resurface. The
creature thrust mightily with his horizontal fluke and sped away at incredible speed.
“Oh my,” said Kansas Lady, “that was a sight.”
“Oh yes,” replied Kansas Man, “a sight indeed.”
But the great thing was, it was only one of many memorable moments that day
as we cruised the waters of Resurrection Bay and Kenai Fjords National Park on an
afternoon excursion out of the historic Alaskan city of Seward. Our ship was the
Alaskan Explorer, one of several sightseeing vessels operated by Kenai Fjords Tours.
In spite of absolutely rotten rainy weather during some portions of the trip, we (wife
Marilyn and I) enjoyed one of the best waterborne excursions we have ever
experienced. Proof indeed that in Alaska one should never forgo the pleasures of an
outing just because of inclement weather; just dress warmly, in layers, for it.
The trip began about 11:30 a.m., shortly after we arrived in the Resurrection
Bay city aboard the Alaska Railroad morning train from Anchorage. After leaving the
dock we heard words of welcome and instruction from not one but two skippers,
Chris and Roy. They advised us:
“Keep your hat on your head. We don’t go back for hats unless you are wearing
one.”
“If you see any folks in the water, throw them a life ring - whether of not they
are from this vessel.”
“A few nautical terms: ‘Port’ means left, ’starboard’ means right, ‘aft’ is toward
the back of the vessel and the ‘bow’ is the pointy end of the boat.”
And, “If you feel seasick, go aft to the rail on the lower deck. Repeat, aft!”
Shortly thereafter we had a tasty lunch, deli-style, consisting of breaded
chicken or breaded fish (or both), apple chips, choice of light beverage, and cookies.
Our meal was interrupted (we didn’t mind) by the sight of our first critter of the
day, a solitary sea otter who drifted by on the port side of the ship. (”Left?” someone
asked. “Yeah, left.”) The creature was reclining in classic sea otter pose - flat on his
back in the water, paws under his chin, with lower legs and tail tucked up toward his
tummy.
“He weighs about 100 pounds and he has,” said one of our captains speaking
from the bridge, “one of the densest coats on earth.”
We heard lots of “Oohs,” “Aaahs,” and “Isn’t he darling…” coming from all over
the lounge. One of our table mates, Pat Horner of New Jersey, was enthralled.
“Nothing like this in New Jersey,” she told us. Her daughter, Gayle Newfeld of
Kodiak, has seen plenty of sea otters near her Alaska home digs. But she, like us,
was thrilled as well.
Next on our mammal list came a Dall’s porpoise, about a hundreds yards to
starboard. “He’s one of the fastest swimmers in the North Pacific,” said the voice
from the skipper’s mike. “Flipper in a tux. He weighs about 300 pounds and can
travel upwards of 35 miles an hour.”
Then - highlight of our trip by any measure - came our romp on the wild side
with the orcas (killer whales), including the eight-ton male who threatened to
“torpedo” us.
Incredibly, during the course of our cruise not one but two separate killer
whale pods, a half-dozen or so animals in each group, joined us to frolic close by
our vessel.
Both groups paced us, raced us, and surrounded us when we slowed.
They rolled, sounded, made shallow breaches, and approached literally within
inches of our ship.
Once, ignoring the rain and looking straight down from my post at the forward
port rail, I found myself gazing incredulously into one creature’s “blow” hole! Thank
goodness he didn’t take that moment to exhale.
Another time the voice from the bridge announced the presence of Steller’s sea
lions, the first of several large or smaller sightings. A big bunch of them, maybe
three dozen or more, were sleeping, lounging, crawling, and climbing on rocky
beach ledges at the base of a steep granite cliff. A few were swimming in the water,
just off shore. Some looked dark gray, almost black; others were light rusty brown
in color. “Actually,” we were told, “they are all the same color. Their fur just looks
dark when they’re wet.” Whatever their coloration, these were impressive specimens,
weighing in at a ton or more for the bulls, but “only” 650 pounds for the more
diminutive females. Even from within the lounge of our vessel we could hear their
incessant growls and bellowing.
Throughout our cruise, in spite of the weather, we saw a goodly number of
seabirds including cormorants, American bald eagles, puffins (with little round
“football” bodies and parrot-like beaks, the most comical-looking bird to fly over
and dive into northern seas), black-legged kittiwakes, and (my personal favorite)
murres. These incredible alcids can dive while fishing to a depth of 300 feet below
the water’s surface or more. Wow! That’s equal to the height of a 30-story building.
Because of their black and white coloring some folk call them “penguins of the
north;” I prefer to think of penguins as “murres of the south.”
And what would an Alaska cruise be without glacier viewing? The ice river we
saw and photographed and ogled over that day was Holgate Glacier. Not the biggest
on the Pacific coast by any means, but a beautiful, classic tidewater glacier with
deep blue colors and an impressive face that calved a few small “growler” bergs into
the sea to the delight of all on board.
Our excursion ended about 5:30 p.m., just in time to board our rail cars for the
return trip to Anchorage.
It was, all agreed, a marvelous tour, one that Alaska visitors can put in their
memory caches as among the best trips in the north country.
Come this spring, summer, or fall you could do a lot worse than book one of
these tours. More information is available on the internet at http://www.kenaifjords.com.
Alaskan Travel Writer Michael Miller lives in Juneau where he writes newspaper and
magazine articles as well as Alaska guidebooks. He also publishes a comprehensive
informational website about Alaska cruising. Visit the site at
http://www.AlaskaCruisingReport.com